What do the acids in our skincare actually do?

Starting your skincare journey can be daunting

But what does each acid or active ingredient actually do for our skin, and how do we figure our which one our skin needs?

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is naturally occurring in skin, helping to give it its structure.

Applying hyaluronic acid can make skin appear more plump.

It can be used everyday, preferably on damp skin, and locked in with a moisturiser after.

Good for: all skin types

Glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant that breaks down layers of dead skin cells, making skin smoother and softer.

Commonly found as an ingredient in toner, it can be applied after your cleanser.

As it is an exfoliant and can make your skin sensitive, it's best to use it at night.

This way your skin is protected from the sun and UV rays.

Good for: dry-normal skin, uneven tone

Niacinamide

A form of Vitamin B3, niacinamide is beneficial for blemishes and minimising the appearance of enlarged pores.

It can also calm redness.

Good for: most skin types

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid exfoliates skin and clears pores.

It works best for breakouts and acne as it penetrates the skin and unclogs pores.

Good for: blemish-prone skin

Lactic acid

Lactic acid is a gentle alternative to glycolic acid that may be more suitable for dry and sensitive skin.

Following up with moisturiser afterwards is crucial to lock in the product.

Good for: sensitive skin

Retinol

Our skin is exposed the sun, the air, and other pollutants as we age.

This exposure can lead to the build up of free radicals in different layers of the skin, leading to wrinkles, fine lines, etc.

Retinol neutralises these free radicals, and also slows the breakdown of collagen. Collagen is what keeps our skin elastic, bouncy, and firm.

For these reasons, retinol works best for mature skin.

Retinol is safe to use everyday, but it's best to use at night time.

It's crucial to use SPF after applying retinol.

Good for: mature skin

Vitamin C:

Vitamin C brightens the skin. Using under the eyes can also reduce the appearance of under eye circles.

It also boosts the production of collagen.

Good for: oily-normal skin

When to use

A good rule of thumb is to never mix acids at the same time in your routine.

For example, you can use hyaluronic acid in the morning and then salicylic acid at night, but not one after the other.

You also shouldn't layer Vitamin C with any of the above, especially retinol.

The nature of the two products essentially means that they cancel each other out.

Again, it's possible to use them at different times of the day.

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